By Julia-Valesca Bliedung, fourth-generation master hairdresser · About the author
Few hairstyles have a reputation like the perm, or have returned so unexpectedly. Someone booking a modern perm in Zurich today is not looking for a frizzy 1985 mane, but for curls that look naturally grown. This article explains how that is possible, its limitations and the cost of an appointment at Valesca Hair in Zurich Seefeld.
What is a modern perm?
Modern perm is today’s name for a permanent wave. The underlying principle remains: perm lotion changes the hair structure, rods shape it, and a second solution fixes the new form. The change is permanent — it grows out rather than washing out.
The tools and intended result have changed. Flexible rods allow different winding tensions, so each strand falls slightly differently, creating natural-looking variation. A rigid roller of a uniform size produces the same curl each time, making the result look deliberately set.
The key difference: no hood dryer
The hood dryer is central to the stereotypical perm look. Hair dries all around, lifts up and loses its weight, creating the voluminous, frizzy fullness behind the style’s reputation.
Without the hood dryer, curls retain their weight and fall downwards rather than outwards. This is an important part of why the technique can produce a different result today.
Modern perm, eighties perm or daily styling?
There are three routes to curls: today’s chemical reshaping, the older approach, or styling with a curling iron each morning. This table compares them:
| Feature | Modern Perm | Eighties perm | Daily styling |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rods | Flexible rods wound with varying tension | Rigid rollers of a uniform size | Curling iron or diffuser, repeated each morning |
| Drying | No hood dryer; curls retain their weight | Hood dryer, encouraging bushy volume | Blow-drying or air-drying |
| Result | Defined curls or loose beach waves with natural variation | Uniform, frizzy fullness all around | Depends on the day and time spent styling |
| Aftercare effort | Wash, air-dry or diffuse — done | Considerable volume control | 10–20 minutes daily |
| Lasting power | Chemically reshaped — grows out rather than washing out | Also permanent | Until the next wash |
Who is a modern perm for?
The technique suits anyone wanting everyday curls without creating them each morning. It works particularly well for:
- Shoulder-length hair — more length allows a more natural fall.
- Short sides with curls on top, a frequently requested cut.
- Very straight hair that does not naturally hold movement.
- Anyone who does not want twenty minutes of mirror time every morning.
It is less suitable for very short hair on top, which must wrap around the rod at least once, or strongly lightened hair that may not tolerate further chemical reshaping. Suitability is determined by consultation, not simply the desired look.
Where the trend comes from
Blick described the comeback in late 2022, following an appointment at Valesca Hair. Its report highlighted men aged 18–30 and a style spreading through friendship groups rather than advertising. The featured 19-year-old chose loose waves because the look was popular among his friends.
“About two years ago, I noticed more and more people wearing curls. It was only a matter of time before the perm returned.”
The comeback is not surprising: cargo trousers, crop tops and sparkling bags also return when enough time has passed for them to feel new. With perms, the technique has also changed in the meantime.
How much does a men’s perm cost in Zurich?
At Valesca Hair, a modern perm costs CHF 188–238 depending on hair length and the work involved, or CHF 248–310 with a cut and styling. Allow around two hours, including processing stages of about 15 minutes each that should not be rushed.
A binding fixed price is agreed after consultation, before treatment begins. Find full details on the Men’s perms services page, and the complete price list under Services & prices.
How do you care for permed hair?
Perming draws moisture from hair, so a moisturising shampoo comes first. Three further habits help:
- Give your curls a few quiet hours after the appointment to settle.
- Air-dry or use a diffuser rather than rubbing dry — friction disrupts definition.
- For extra shine, a gloss offers a gentle option: it coats the hair rather than reshaping it again.
Find the care ranges used in the salon on the Products page.
Frequently asked questions about modern perms
How does the modern perm differ from an eighties perm?
Three things: rods, drying and the intended result. Flexible rods replace rigid rollers so each strand falls slightly differently. The hood dryer stays off, avoiding bushy volume. The aim is no longer maximum fullness but curls that look naturally grown.
Why is no hood dryer used today?
Because it encourages the effect a modern perm aims to avoid. Under a hood dryer, hair dries all around and lifts up, creating the voluminous, frizzy effect associated with eighties perms. Without it, the curls retain weight and fall downwards rather than outwards.
Does a perm damage hair?
Perming chemically changes the hair structure. A new name does not change that. Today’s products are gentler than those used forty years ago, but suitability depends on your hair texture and previous treatments. That is why the appointment starts with a consultation, not the rods.
Can coloured or bleached hair be permed?
It depends on the extent of previous treatment. A toner or gloss is often unproblematic, whereas strongly lightened hair may already have lost structural strength and may not tolerate further chemical reshaping. There is no universal answer — discuss this at the start, not the end.
Why are young men getting perms again?
The look spreads through friendship groups rather than advertising. Blick described the trend in a late-2022 feature at Valesca Hair: a 19-year-old client wanted waves because the style was popular among his friends. Like cargo trousers and crop tops, hairstyles can return when enough time has passed for them to feel new.